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Homemade wax for chalk-based paints

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Tired of spending a fortune on wax for chalk-based paints?  Me too!  So I make homemade wax for chalked-based paint that’s cheap to make. 

homemade wax

Homemade wax for chalk-based paint recipe is easy as pudding but doesn’t taste as good.

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-clear-dark | Country Design Style |

Homemade Wax

My homemade wax works perfectly with chalk-based paints, stained, or aged wood.

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-recipe | Country Design Style |

My first wax I made years ago

I’ve actually “made” my wax for well over 20 years. I love soft dark wax, but years ago, it was hard to find. So I made some by mixing Feed and Wax with a paint tint. I still have a jar of the mix, but it doesn’t smell as good as the ones I make now. I used the wax to create a painting technique called blurred grain. The method is in my digital book, Crazy Ulitmate How to Aged Book.

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small portion of any sales at no additional cost to you.  I only share products I like, used and have ordered, OR the products I want.

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My next disclosure:  This post has been updated to a safer and more comfortable way to melt the wax and add mineral oil.  Thank you to my fabulous reader!

The homemade wax recipes

I made three different types of wax for sharing with you today. One is a hard clear wax to rub-on, one is a soft clear wax, and one is soft dark wax.

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint | Country Design Style |

Supplies to make wax


Mineral oil 

Colorant tint in raw umber.   This is another brand in raw umber.   

Mason jars {these are perfect for the homemade wax.  They are squatty with a wide mouth.} 

Oh, if you want a brush like the one pictured, this is the one I bought.

I like this beeswax because there’s little smell and it melts quickly. You can use mineral oil to oil wood cutting boards. Cleans too! The colorant tint works to add color to water-based and oil paints. I like the darker shade of raw umber. It’s not too black, too brown or too rusty orange.

Melting the wax

Saucepan method {old method}

I found an old saucepan, whisk and measuring cups in our thrift store that I use for homemade wax and melting wax for these candles! In the photos below, I used the pan to melt the wax on the lowest flame possible. 

Double boiler method {new method}

Now I use the double boiler method.  I add water in a saucepan and place an oven-safe bowl on top to make a double boiler.   

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-wax | Country Design Style |

This beeswax is white, so it doesn’t add any color to the final wax.

Melting Wax in Double Boiler Set Up | Country Design Style |

Steps to make soft clear homemade wax

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-melted | Country Design Style |
  1. Measure 1/4 cup of beeswax in an oven-safe bowl or on top of the double boiler. Add water to the saucepan or bottom of the double boiler. Turn on heat to low-medium heat let the water come to a boil. Then place the bowl or on top of the double boiler to melt the wax. Melting is quick. In the past, I used beeswax in small squares. I like the beads better.
  2. When the wax melts, quickly remove from heat and add 1/2 cup of the mineral oil. Stir with a whisk.
  3. Pour carefully into a mason jar. Mineral oil is not flammable. To be extra safe, add the oil to the hot melted wax away from flames. Wax and oil need to be warm to mix well. The oil does start cooling the wax, but keep stirring until incorporated well. Let sit open until cool. When completely cool, stir. Then seal.

This soft wax I apply with a wax brush or use a soft lint-free cloth.

 Steps to make harder clear homemade wax

  1.  Measure 1/2 cup beeswax into an oven-safe bowl or on top of the double boiler.  Add water to the saucepan or bottom of the double boiler.  Turn on heat to low-medium heat let the water come to a boil.  Add the oven-safe bowl or on top of the double boiler and melt the wax over low-medium heat.  Remove from heat.
  2.  Quickly add 1/3 cup mineral oil.
  3.  Pour carefully into a mason jar.  Quickly start stirring.  Stir, stir, stir.  Let sit open until cool.  The extra wax and less oil make a harder wax.

This wax I apply with a wax brush.  Then buff to a clear shine with a soft lint-free cloth.

Steps to make dark homemade wax

1.  After adding the wax into the mason jar, add 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of raw umber tint colorant.

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-dark-wax | Country Design Style |

2.  Using a craft stick, stir, stir and stir again.  Stir until the wax starts forming.  If you walk away…

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-mix | Country Design Style |

this happens!! Yep, I walked away.

But, stir, stir, stir and the wax will be fine.

Wax samples

Homemade-Wax-on-wood-sign | Country Design Style |

I’m working on my photography skills and will be f~o~r~e~v~e~r! The photo was the best I can show the different waxes. The clear remains light on the furniture. The harder wax holds up more. The waxes, very clear may darken wood or paint slightly. Buffing brings out a soft shine. I like applying the softer wax more. You can see on the wood sign where there’s no wax.

Homemade-Wax-on-wood-sign-top | Country Design Style |

This photo shows the darker wax in a better light.  I’ve also made a whitewash wax for a lighter look or antiquing. 

Other ideas to melt the wax

Scented Wax burner | Country Design Style |

There are a couple of other options to melt the beeswax. You can use one of the scented wax items like the one I have above. It uses a tealight to melt the scented wax and melts these little beads of beeswax just fine. There are also small electric pots that melt scented wax like this one on Amazon that would work. I need to get one!!

If you need to learn how to protect your painted furniture click here. 

Pin this!

Homemade-Wax-for-chalk-based-paint-tutorial | Country Design Style |

Here’s a lovely pin to remember where you saw this homemade wax recipe!

I have a can of $48 dollar wax in my craft room. I like my homemade wax better than that $48 wax collecting dust in my craft room.  And I could make gallons of this wax for the cost of one tin.

Click the images to shop the post

Now I’m craving a big bowl of cool chocolate pudding!!! 😀

Learn to make homemade barn wood to go with your homemade wax!

DIY help bonuses and printables

Let me know if you make the homemade wax or if you have any questions. I’m here to help.  Remember to “Create at your own risk.”

DIY projects using homemade wax

Thank you so much to my awesome readers.  You guys are the best. 😀

Here’s a link to the post on Whitewash wax I made after making these waxes.  I made a turquoise and red wax too! 😀

Check the cornerstone post on how to distress wood.

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    1. Jenna says

      I can’t wait to make my own finishing wax for my restoration projects! Have you seen the new fusion mineral pearl finishing wax? I want to make my own with a white pearl paint or colorant. What would you suggest I try? A pearl acrylic paint maybe?
      TIA, Jenna

      • Jeanette says

        Jenna, I suggest using a colorant in white pearl to tint your homemade wax. The colorants work much better than paint. Now I want to make a pearl wax!!! 😀

    2. Debbie says

      Hi Jeanette, thanks so much for sharing your recipes…I can’t wait to make them. Jeanette is the soft wax pliable enough to put into a squeeze bottle? If not is there a way to alter the recipe so that it would be. To be honest I would like to replicate the consistency of the product “Mind Your Own Beeswax”.

      Hope you have some suggestions. Thanks again Jeanette

      Kind regards,

      • Jeanette says

        I haven’t tried “Mind Your Own Beeswax” yet. But I will soon. I increase the amount on mineral oil when I want to make a softer wax. Although, I don’t think my softest wax would squeeze from a bottle. But, I’m sure adding a teaspoon at a time it might work. The softer wax isn’t a durable as the harder wax. A couple of chunks of carnuble wax would add durability. Hope my thoughts helped.

    3. Michelle says

      Will this work on painted fabric to soften? And if you use candle wax do you use beeswax as well?
      Great article!

      • Jeanette says

        Hi, Michelle, I have never used wax on painted fabric, so I’m not sure. Is the paint made for fabric? I do use beeswax with the carnauba wax.

    4. Jane says

      I love your detailed directions and tutorials. It’s always a joy to explore a DIY project and you are an inspiration! Thank you!
      What do you recommend adding to the wax to give it a whitewash finish?

      • Jeanette says

        Thank you, Jane, for your kind words. I’ve added just white paint to the wax, but the results are uneven. Now I use tintall in white. I find it a larger paint stores. I suggest calling around first. Not all stores with have it.

    5. Jill Jere says

      I am a bit late to this party 🙂 But gosh… I have been going thru a LOT of wax. I also am VERY interested in making colored waxes to go on top of white or black or WHATEVER colored paints. I can’t find anyone making this type of wax to sell. I have used black wax from chalkworthy that I LOVE on my bedroom set. I am currently using a white wax from folkart over a Summer Wish Yellow that I wish was more ‘white’.

      Will this wax come out soft or hard? Is there anything to put into it to make it a harder finish? More caranauba wax maybe? I am going to try my hand at making this but am worried to put it on my own furniture for the house. Will throw it on a craigslist special that I know I will just turn around and sell.

      • Jeanette says

        Jill, Yes, if you add more carnauba wax the results is a harder wax. Also, adding less mineral oil results in a harder wax. I use colorants to tint the wax. Always, test on cheap thrift store wood before using on special pieces. ~Jeanette

    6. Alma says

      Hi Jeanette! First of all, thank you for sharing your recipes! I made both a clear and dark walk for my first project with diy chalk paint. Currently, I’m facing a problem though…I was scared to damage the paint by rubbing too hard and, in the process, may have used too much wax (i felt it was a bit hard to spread aswell with tiny lumps. Where did i go wrong?). Anyway, i tried removing the exess …4 large rags were covered in wax when I decided to stop bcs the paint was starting to rub off). Now I am left with a shiny, greasy piece of furniture (not tacky, just greasy) which , stupidly, I finished with dark wax accents anyway. Could this dry in a few days? Will it behave like AS wax and become tacky? Should I wait and then maybe go over it with mineral spirits?
      I’d appreciate any help with this – thank you so much!
      Alma from Germany

      • Jeanette says

        Alma, I send you an email but wanted to help on the post as well. Just in case anyone else faced this issue. It sounds like the wax didn’t melt completely. Plus, it might be too hard. I suggest making a new batch with a bit more mineral oil. Do stir well to remove any lumps. Then apply the wax in thin layers. Also applying was with a soft brush can help. The wax should dry as you buff. And dry harder over a couple of days. It shouldn’t be tacky at all. Let me know if this helps.

    7. Dave in Chattanooga says

      Just finished making two batches of soft wax one clear and one tinted dark antiquing glaze. Both came out great. Thanks so much for the great clear directions. Love your blog.

    8. Teresa Archer says

      Have you ever tried buffing the dried wax with a shoe shine brush? The old fashioned 2″ x 4″ brish? I tried it on some old wood after I had applied wax with an old wax brush. Worked great at getting in the cracks and crevices without damaging the wood s finish.

      I was just headed to town to figure out what kin d of wax to buy for some boxes I’m making. Can’t afford AS yet so was looking for other suggestions. You just made my day with this post, thank you!

      Teresa in Texas

      • Jeanette says

        Hey, Teresa! What a great idea to use a shoe shine brush. I bought Mike a fancy new one last Christmas that I’m sure I can’t snag from him but maybe I can use his old one! Can’t wait to give it a try. Thank you for the tip and for following me.

      • Ruchi Srivastava says

        Hi … what type of bristles should the brush be of? Natural or synthetic? Gonna try out this clear wax recipe after scouring thru tons of pinterest posts 🙂 Fingers crossed now!!!

        • Jeanette says

          Hi, Ruchi, Great question. Natural bristle brushes are best for wax. I’ve used expensive brushes and I’ve used $5 Wooster brushes with the short handle from home depot. I sorta like the Wooster brush best. I hold at the base of the bristles to gather together to rub on, but use the angle to get into corners.

      • Jeanette says

        Hey Damariz! Thanks for the comment on the furniture wax post. I haven’t tried paraffin for furniture wax, only in candy. 🙂 But it should do fine. It will take longer to melt than beeswax. I always tell readers to test on an inexpensive thrift store piece first before applying waxes or paint to expensive or precious items.

    9. Dawn says

      I used a small crock pot, 1 that is used for heating up Chile cheese dip. I took a pack of tea lights (25) and added them to the crock pot. I remove the tealights from the aluminum casing, broke them in half and removed the wicks ahead of time. Once they were melted I added two thirds of a cup of mineral oil. I let the mixture heat up together in the Crock-Pot on high for 30 minutes, I did very little stirring. I then poured them into two 8 oz Wide Mouth Mason jars. I allowed the mixture to cool overnight, and in the morning I had a very smooth hard wax, and it works great!

    10. RUTH kape says


    11. RUTH kape says

      OH MY GOSH JEANETTE YOU ARE A GODDESS!!!!! i just made the chalk paint wax and it is lovely, creamy and move over annie sloan This is a keeper and nothing could be more simple I thank you so much and you know im already onto the next project THANKS AGAIN

      • Jeanette says

        Ruth, you made me feel so wonderful…I must adjust my crown! 😀 Actually, I love using my homemade wax and saving money too! Thank you for reading and pop back over soon!

    12. Denise says

      Love the wax! For the untinted harder wax, I added a few drops of lemon extract, and for the tinted – I used a few drops of vanilla. 🙂

      • Jeanette says

        I have used Johnson’s floor wax for furniture. I like the softer finish of furniture waxes and that why I use them more. But floor paste waxes hold up to high wear and tear. Thanks for asking.

    13. K farrell says

      Does it have to be beeswax or can you use regular household wax? I have yellow beeswax, but don’t want the color, and I have clear household wax, didn’t want to have to make a special purchase if I don’t have to

      • Jeanette says

        Michelle, I added an affiliate link in the post to the tint. Also, you can check your local paint center for paint tints. They work on both oil and water based paints. A little goes a long way.

      • Jeanette says

        Hi, Jacolyn! I buy the beeswax on Amazon. I realize when you get this reply it will be in your email. I don’t want to spam you so if you revisit the post on Homemade wax, you can click the turquoise BEESWAX word and it will take you directly to the beeswax I buy. Some communities will have beeswax in craft stores too. We just don’t have a craft store within 70 miles. Plus I like the small beads of beeswax on Amazon. The wax is very white and melts fast. Thank you for stopping by!

    14. TK Smith says

      This is so much fun! Being new to the blog, But not new to DIY, I am enjoying everything I read!
      It is refreshing to see the instructions and projects that can be completed in a short time. Those finished treasures give us added determination to do some more ?

      • Jeanette says

        Hi, TK! You are so right! Even as a DIY blogger there are those times when faced with a larger project, it helps to make several quick simple DIY’s to “get in the mood!” Glad to have you on board!

    15. C.W. Newman says

      Dear Jeanette;
      I love to read all your ideas and wish I was near enough to “play” artist with you . It’s always more fun to work with others and bounce ideas back and forth. I’m so impressed with your commitment and ability to make projects and show others how to create similar projects on your blog. Please keep up the great work and thank you for the gracious comment.


      • Jeanette says

        Hi, Cindy!
        I truly wish you were closer too. There are only one of gal here to create with and she has one of those “real” jobs. I miss bouncing ideas back and forth. I have to tell you when I first read your comment, I flashed back to a CDS Sunday Morning segment about a girl afraid to fry food. She was on a mission to conquer 100 fears. It was so sweet and funny. I should have thought of her when I first wrote the post. Thank goodness for readers like you to help me out. I’m lucky to have you as a reader. If you ever want to bounce around ideas, let me know.

    16. C.W. Newman says

      Always use a double boiler setup to melt wax . This can be a pot in a pan of simmering water. Wax ( and oil probably also) is very flammable. Your post scared me. Just the thought of the wax catching fire in a pot is disturbing.

      • Jeanette says

        C.W., Thank you so much for your comment. I rewrote the post to add a double boiler or set up with an oven proof bowl over a pan for water to melt the wax. Plus a couple of other options. If you have a moment, please stop back by and reread the post to see if I got it right. I appreciate each and every reader and especially those that correct me. I’m an old southern gal that learned to cook loads of fried food. But let’s keep everyone safe. Thank you for your help.

    17. Tonya says

      Great post, Jeanette. I’m going to give this a try. Any suggestions on making a white wax? Maybe adding a bit of white paint to the wax?

      • Jeanette says

        Tonya, when you have a chance pop back over the read the post again. I included some safer alternatives to melting the wax. Plus I just made white wax this morning to try the safer melt. I will be posting about the white wax next week. But just for you, I added about 2 tablespoons of white chalked based paint to the mix…and it works great. Add it in place of the raw umber tint.

        • Kelly says

          I work mainly on recycled wood, which tends to be fairly rough. Do you feel this product would work on it? I’m very curious and have hesitated to buy the AS due to cost? I’d live to heat your thoughts. 👏

          • Jeanette says

            Hi, Kelly, The wax can work on rough wood. You may need to apply with a brush instead of a rag. Otherwise, the rag may get splinters! You could try “buffing” with a dry brush. Wax brushes are expensive, but I’ve used regular paintbrushes and hold the bristles close in my hand. I’ve added a rubber band around the bristles too. Another idea is to cut the bristles down. I cut them in half. Please pop back and let me know your results. Thanks ~Jeanette

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